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Position-Report Happy New Year - SOM 12:
Buenos Aires with some excursions 31.12.2005
Ihr Lieben, dear friends,
As promised in the last SOM the next report (SOM) followes quickly. Enjoy reading our short report. And don´t forget, we would like to hear from you too. We are enjoing each message we get from you.
This translation may be influenced by a long night in one of the milongas (a kind of tango-session), Argentine red vine and and Martin´s and Anke’s english knowledge – so have fun and enjoy it!
Like Rio de Janeiro and Salvador Buenos Aires is a town which you cannot desribe in a short report. Here too we do not now where to start. Close around our first port, the Puerto Madero, is an exciting life. Restaurants and bars in numbers. And this continues to the closeby city center. Though all stores close in the evening, shutting their windows and doors carefully, the city does not sleep at all. People who are sorting waste appear and while tearing apart and destroying all the black plastic waste-bags They disperse all the contents on the road, looking for things which are worthful for them. Nobody is complaining about the mess and next morning – like a wonder – the streets are clean again.
Spotted everywhere you will find some restaurants, cafes (Confeterias) and bars which show vivid night-life all the time. From the parilla, which offers all kind of meat - beginning with Bife de lomo (beef filet), Bife de chorizo (a special kind of beef), Asado (rips cut diagonal through cattles breast) and ending up with Chorizo (sausage), Morcillo (black pudding), guts and everything you can image on a barbecue - continuing with Chinese, Indian, Italian restaurants and ending at tapa- and sushi-bars you can find meals for every taste. And – no question – you can take your diner visiting a show-event, for exampel the Carlos Gardel-show, which is telling the story of the most popular tango singer Carlos Gardel, the uncrowned king of tango. Or you can listen some concerts in the fascinating Club del Vino. And more and more. Or you can decide to go to one of the concert halls. Tango again? Omar Mollo (pronounciate: Omar Mosho) is worth a visit. We guessed him to be the middle of the fifties, with not-too-small belly, long curled black hair, he is singing old tango-songs with ardour and at the end of each of his songs he is close to death by lovesickness perhaps close to pure suicide. Watching the audience - young and old mixed – is an impressing experience. You will see not only one tear running down perhaps remembering an old passion… A 12 year old German journal dares to write „Tango for the parents, discos for the youth …“, but look, tango is still living in Buenos Aires of today, danced by all generations. Zully Goldfarb, an other singer enriched tango songs less weary of life and with Yiddish titles. When the shows end near midnight real tango just starts up to live. Now the passionate Porteño, like the inhabitants of B.A. call themselves, join one of the countless Milongas. Most of this locations are situated in the first floor above an at this time mostly closed cafe, and here Tango is celebrated from midnight to early morning. Many of this Milonga halls show an impressing ambience of art nouveau. Everybody can join the Milonga and dance. During short breaks professional dancers show their capabilities. Young couples show what tango can mean. The normal Porteño also is a passionate dancer. You can recognize whether a couple dances in hormony or not. If not the girls eyes are open most of the time and she is looking around. Do they have perfect harmony, she is dancing with eyes closed the whole time guided only by little impulses of her partner. Often both are touching each other with their heads - kind of a third leading hand. Fascinating is the beginning of an new dance: You can watch how tension is increasing in the bodies, how the bodies lift up a little bit, and how the tension is loosed by the first dance step which leads the dancers in a different world, a kind of time-limited universe for this only two people.
Culture. In this town you can find arts and culture everywhere. About 230 theatres are existing here. And all of them work and live! And everywhere you can discover some exhibitions of fine arts. Not to forget the countless museums. In the famous colourful quarter of La Boca we find an exhibition building where the local art scene meets international art. Who is shown today? Margarete Trockel. As German as “Rote Grütze”. And really unexpected: in one of the green houses of the Botanical Garden we find lots of wooden sculptures, in each of the four floors of Torre de Ingleses a different exhibition of modern art. And so on. And the Porteño seems to love reading. Never during our travel we found so many librarys like here. But first of all Buenos Aires has it’s special kind of Gemütlichkeit. And despite of a real busy and unorthodox traffic people show a surprising tranquillity. The use of the cars horn is rare, and rare is someone becoming angry. Rather the Porteño prefers to enter a cafe and enjoy life.
Months we could spent in Buenos Aires, enjoying city life. For example watching a performance in famous Teatro Colon where, with help of Shila, friend of all sailors, we visited a ballet - many thanks to you, Shila – and we could do a short look backstage. You could watch soccer, remember Maradona started his carreer with the “Boca Juniors” team, you could cheer the Argentine rugby national team, which did a hard fight versus South African team but at last remaining second winner, or you could enjoy the splendid atmosphere of Polo. These sport of the real rich seems to be more at home in Argentine than everywhere else. About 50 well educated horses a team of four players need. And still today fatal accidents happen quiet regularly. It was reported that in Argentine one player is killed every year. Can this be true?
We should leave the center with all the junk and flea markets, antique shops, little quarters und curiosities like Recoleta cemetary. Buenos Aires turns fluently into it’s surroundings: a blanquet of suburbs. In one of these suburbs we are staying now: San Fernando. 4 weeks we stayed in one the yachtclubs there without any charge and prepared our boat for the journey to the southerly regions. All floar boards, hatches, doors and other openings were prepared against unwanted opening. They should keep locked even during a knock-down. We ordered an additional storm-jib of 5 m² only because we had the feeling that our old one of 14 m² might be too large. We replaced our electric autoilot which broke down in Lisbon and fitted three drums with 100 m rope each. They should help to tie up the boat in all the little bays of the southern islands. And we did a lot more. Anke´s sister Beate and her boyfriend Michael came fo a 2 weeks visit and brought Martins new camera equipment. (many thanks to you both! and some special thanks to Foto-Haas in Hanover, who gave all the equipment to unknown hands just because of mail order and before recieving one cent - thank you for your confidence.) And we got more additional stuff which we now had to install. Long waited for was our new computer, specially buildt for usind onboard in the size of a car radio. Much bigger was the 17“-screen which caused some problems. Where to find space to fix it? And much bigger the problems when we recognized that the computer did not work. But with assistance of Jochen and Anne from LEOA – many thanks to you Jochen and Anne! – we could solve all drivers and installation-problems and now the bloody expensive thing is working well.
We had planned to join Beate and Michael on a visit of the Iguazu waterfalls. Sponsored by Beates and Ankes dad – thank you Klaus - we entered the plane only a few days after their arrival and jumped right in the waterworld of Iguazu, one of the worlds biggest cataracts. In the two National Parks we spent two and a half day and we both could have spent more time there. Our two buddies showed some touristic weakness which may have caused by there special “honeymoon desires”.
It is nearly impossible to describe the Iguazu cataracts. From the Argentine side you cannot see the cataracts in their full extension but there are a lot of possibilities to see allways changing sceneries. And though thousands of tourists are coming every year a smart organisation and clever guidance still guarantees a fascinating nature experience. Besides the falls you can discover a lot of wild life. Lots of different butterflies are spotting the air, one of them the big Blue Morpho. You can watch Tucans and the droll nosebear (in German: Nasenbär) called Coati. But this report is not the right place to tell and show all this. If you have some interest, look to our homepage www.justdoit.de.ki (sorry, only in German) which is managed by Martins old friend Lutz. Many thanks, Lutz!
Afterwards we headed to Yacutinga-Lodge. We wanted to have two days of real djungle-feeling. Here they try to manage the business without any polluting or disturbance of nature and ecoligically- friendly. Electric power is available only for a few strictly defined hours daily and communication with civilization is only made by ham-radio. No phone! Although you can live in comfortable bungalows – the nightly sounds of the jungle included – and share a little part of a different reality. Guided by well-educated biologists we become familiar with the little and bigger secrets of the djungle. Highlights were the observation of water pigs and a real nice contact to Guaraní kids who did a little singing for us. Only jaguars and alligators did not show up. But wait a while …
Few weeks later Anke´s friend Kirsten arrived. Her second visit after the trip from Lisbon to Alvor last year! She wanted to get some distance to troubles at home, but thanks to modern techniques - WLan, notebook and internet - this was not really working. Together we booked a ferry-trip to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. We fall in love to the charme of this little spot and only few days later you could see JUST DO IT heading north for Colonia.
What happend too? In Buenos Aires nearly all yachts met together on their way south. And most of them stayed in Club de Velero Barlovento. Among them were SIDHARTHA, LIZARD, LEOA and BREAKPOINT. All crews were busy preparing the boats for the travel to the south. Only NEW DAWN from South Africa and VENT BLANC, an Argentinine yacht stayed tranquil and cool. And then one after the other they started heading south. We still expected Kirsten (see above).
When she entered the plane back to the US we moved to the oldest and most traditional yacht club in Argentine, the Yacht Club Argentino. Here we listened to the wheather forecasts waiting for a good wehther window and started. But why the hell the wheather didn´t listen to the prognosis? The got the winds on the nose and we had to tack. But then the winds started to play a cruel play with us. Just changing the bow, the wind altered direction and we were sailing back we just came from. Martin had some strange feelings though Anke wants to struggle on but finally we turned and sailed back. Some days later we got a new good weather forecast. We sailed to lovely Colonia to wait for the northerly winds. Moored to a buoy we were hit by a little thunderstorm. For safety reasons we wanted to prepare the anchor but - bad surprise - the windlass blocked the chain. Few Minutes later we discovered water beneath the engine! The salt water pump was leaking obviously. And finally one of Ankes teeth splitted. We decide to return to Buneos Aires because this seems to be the best place to repair and sove all problems. Gustavo Hardt, the friend of all foreign sailors, made a reservation for a berth in Barlovento, and we start our new works. One and a half week later all things are done. The waterpump ist fixed and a second one for quick change is bought. We installed a new and stronger windlass und fixed the old one which is now sleeping in the bilge (just in case). Anke´s tooth is well treated too. In addition it’s Christmas time – what a surprise – and second surprise, on Christmas Eve Santa Claus appears at the stern of our boat: Thomas, son of Gustavo with a Christmas present! Dear friend Gustavo, dear Thomas and dear Carolina, many many thanks for all your help.
And then there is Erwin, el Comander de VENT BLANC. One calm, nice evening Erwin (71 years young, starting to the Caribean Islands and Polynesia in some weeks) is enthusing about Rio Paraná, Rio Paraguay and the Pantanal. And the more we try to ask others the more enthusiasts we find. And – this year the wheather is extremely extraordinary. None of the yachts which started heading south reached Ushuaia until now. Most of them had to stop somewhere. And so we decide to make the rivertrip. Cap Horn will wait for us.
So dear reader, be on watch: the next year we will spent at more or less unexpected places.
We have to add an little annex. Some people are concerned our live may be a poor one. For example my father, the other Klaus, always is worried about our food. Therefore a short report about our todays shopping:
We go to the „Jumbo“. Nomen est Omen. This supermarket is non of the small ones. Some articles are not cheap but „Jumbo“ offers a big choice which is not guaranteed to find at many places. Fresh vegetables and fruit are not so wide spreaded like the tropical variety at Brazilian markets, the supply seems to be more European but except this it seems that there is nothing you will miss. Except perhaps Marmite. But then – hold on -: Semmelnknödeln. Made by Pfanni and by Kartoffelland. German labels. Can you believe this? My fahther is always concerned about that we could not have enough to eat. This cannot be, the best proof is Martins (and Ankes, ähem…) nice little belly, which increases since we crossed the Atlantic Ocean. And Argentine is famous to be a land for „beefeaters“. This is not the whole truth today. You will find food from all over the world and even vegetarian restaurants. But back to the supermarket, what we discover too? We cannot believe our eyes! A short ennumeration: Milka and Ritter-Sport chocolate in variations, Kinderschokolade including Kinder-surprise-eggs, Haribo-Gummibärchen, to name the most important things, and then: three types of Rote Grütze made by Kühne and Schwartau, marmelade made by the Danish Gamle Fabriken, marmelade made by Schwartau, Jacobs coffee type „Krönung“ and coffee Dallmeyer Prodomo, candied orange peel, rice pudding, different kinds of teas from the German Label Teekanne and really! real “Ostriesentee”, sugar candies, filets of herring in tomato-sauce, black wild rice from Oryza from Germany, which never can have grown in Germany, what a paradoxon, “Brezeln” and “Jägermeister”, “Müsli” and preboiled fried potatoes, “Gipsy”- and cocktail sauce, “Kühne” herbs vinegar and balls of beet root in a gourmet pot. All this of German origin and also labeled in German language.
But we turn our back to all thess (expensive) attractions except some chocolates and hurry over to all the other good supplies. Teriyaki-, Oyster- and Chillibeansauce, a variety of marmelades, exotic vegetables in cans, sausages and cheese and different vines and sparkling vines are moving into the trolley. Fresh onions, garlic, fresh basil and more. Nobody should think we are starving!
And this is the end of the story for today and we will start to prepare our New Years party together with Ruth, Kyall, Anne and Cara from NEW DAWN!
Dear friends at home, on sea and at foreign coasts we wish you always fair winds and a very good New Year 2006!!
Martin and Anke
SY JUST DO IT, in Buenos Aires, Argentinien
PS.: Just today we got the message that as the first boat SIDARTHA reached Ushuaia at 2005-12-29! Enjoy New Years Eve at Fin del Mundo!
Som12-1: Puerto Madero(Perto Madero)
Som12-2: Straßentango(tango in the streets)
Som12-3: Iguacu-Ausschnitt(Iguacu-one scene only)
Som12-4: Indigenas - Indian children singing
Som12-6: „Grill-Hähnchen“ (grilled chicken)
Som12-7: Kirsten und Oldy(Kirsten and oldie)